This pattern was first printed in the Fall 1985 issue of American Quilter by Joe and Allison Arnold.
Eight-pointed Star Cubed is divided into three parts: the cubical design, the border and the binding. The cubical design is separated into three sections and each of theses sections into two panels. The border is made up of four strips. The binding is the finishing touch of the wallhanging. The complete outlined assembly follows our list of materials needed. Graphics are provided for clarity.
Plastic for making templates
1/2 yard background fabric (light solid or print)
1/2 yard each of 3 medium to medium dark solids (red, green, blue, for example) for the 3 stars.
1/2 yard each very dark solids or prints of these same 3 color groups for darkest shadows.
1/2 yard each medium dark of each of these same 3 colors for medium shadows
1/2 yard each medium light to medium solids or prints of these same 3 color groups for lighter shadows
29″ x 29″ square batting
29″ x 29″ square backing
Quilting thread to match each fabric of each color group
Between needles #9, #10, or #12
1/4″ masking tape
Adjustable square quilting frame
Soft lead pencils, kept very sharp
White pencil, kept very sharp
45 degree Drafter’s triangle
Note: Choose only 100% cotton fabrics. Pay careful attention to all instructions. Take your time and above all take pride in your workmanship.
- Wash and dry all fabrics.
- Tear off all selvedges.
- Press with hot, dry iron.
- Lay plastic on top of pattern and trace exactly over pattern lines, duplicating pattern on plastic.
- Cut template out of plastic directly on pencil line. There are 8 pattern templates, A through H; reversed templates will have to be cut for A, B, D, G, and H, making a total of 13 templates.
- Letter all templates as per graphic.
- Templates do not include seam allowances.
Making and Cutting Fabric:
Note: Turn templates over to mark wrong side of fabrics!
- Number fabrics as per graphic.
- Mark fabric and cut out shapes, taking one section of the wallhanging at a time. Always mark wrong side of fabric and remember to turn all templates over before placing them on the wrong side of the fabric.
- Observe arrows on graphic for template placement on fabric. Arrows refer to straight grain of fabric.
- Mark around template with sharp soft lead or white pencil. Make all point lines intersect. Since templates do not include seam allowances,t he line you mark is your seam line.
- Cut pattern shapes out of fabric about 1/4″ outside marked line.
Remember, work in one part or section at a time.
Total number of shapes needed out of each fabric:
Fabric #1: 2 A, 2 AR, 2 B, 2 BR
Fabric #2: 2 A, 2 AR, 2 B, 2 BR
Fabric #3: 2 A, 2 AR, 2 B, 2 BR
Fabric #4:1 D, 1 DR, 2 E, 2 F, 2 G, 2 GR, 1 H, 1 HR
Fabric #5: 2 C
Fabric #6: 1 D, 1 DR
Fabric #7: 2 C
Fabric #8: 2 C
Fabric #9:1 D, 1 DR
Fabric #11: 2 C
Fabric #12: 1 D, 1 DR
Fabric #13: 2 C
Note: Piece with thread the color of the darkest fabric in the union.
Note: Press seam allowances to the darker or more dense fabric.
Border: The border is made up of four border strips cut from fabrics #4; #7, #12, and #10.
- Cut 2 horizontal border strips out of fabric #4 that measure 2″ x 15 1/2″ (NSA: no seam allowance).
- Cut 2 vertical border strips out of fabric #4 that measure 2″ x 19 1/2″ (NSA)
- Cut 4 strips 1/2″ x 26″ (NSA) out of red group (example, #7); Cut 4 strips 1″ x 26″ (NSA) out of green group (example, #12); Cut 4 strips 1 1/2″ x 26″ (NSA) out of blue group (example, #10)
Piece these strips together in the above order.
Use 14″ square of one of red group (example, #7) and make bias binding.
Any fabric remaining after border assemblies and bias can be cut up for cubical design.
Note: The cubical design is divided into 3 sections: top, lower left, lower right. Mark and cut each section one at a time.
Top section: (red in example) Top section divided into 2 panels. Refer to graphic and assemble panels. Letters refer to templates; numbers refer to fabrics. Observe arrows for straight grain.
Piece two panels together to complete top section.
Lower left section: Lower left section is divided into 2 corner panels. Piece the 2 panels together and then set them to each other as in graphic to complete lower left section.
Now piece the top section to the lower left section.
Note: Observe piece E #4 at center of bottom edge of cubical design: this will be set in last.
Lower right section: The lower right section is divided into 2 corner panels. Piece the 2 panels together and then to each other.
Now piece lower right section to union of top and lower left section as per graphic.
Finally set in piece E #4 at center of lower edge.
Final Piecing Assembly:
- With cubical design completed, set the 2 horizontal #4 borders and then 2 vertical #4 borders on the cubical design.
- Now measure and mark center of each side of pieced outside border along inside 1/2″ border edge (red in example) and measure and mark center of outside edges of cubical design.
- Now place pin 9 1/4″ to either side of center pins on the inside edge of the four borders.
- These pins in the border will line up with the center and outer corners of the sides of the cubical design. Line p pins and stitch seams together.
- Now miter out corners of the borders using 45 degree angle as guide line.
Assembly for Quilting:
- Layer the backing (wrong side up), batting and pressed top (right side up).
- Pin or baste these layers together.
- Pin into frame.
- Using 1/4″ masking tape, experiment with parallel lines on shadow fabrics of each star. Quilt parallel lines using tape as guide. Try 1/8″ spaces to 1/4″ spaces between quilted lines; this graduation gives dimension to your design.
- Using 1/4″ masking tape, quilt double lines radiating out from star points – quilt all the way across borders.
Or, use your own imagination to quilt the wallhanging.
NOTE: If you made the first wallhanging in the series, you probably have enough bias left over to bind Eight-Pointed Star Cubed.
- Make continuous bias 1 5/8″ wide.
- Fold bias in half and press.
- Bind wallhanging.